JEFF
02-07-2009, 01:59 AM
We holidayed in Sierra de Aracena Natural Park in 2006 and 2008 and were so impressed with the area that I decided to write a short piece about it so that other hikers/walkers can discover its charms. Foolish? Well, it covers a large area and could certainly cope with a few more of us. As I am not sure how to add photos I am happy to email a version of this with pictures to anyone who requests more information.
Travel approximately 65 miles from Seville towards Portugal on the N433 and you will find yourself in the Sierra de Aracena Natural Park in the north of Spain’s Huelva province. All the holidays we take are walking holidays and we have had several in different parts of the Spanish mainland and islands. However, it was not until April 2006 that we finally got around to visiting this tranquil, rural haven, which is revered throughout Spain for its pork products. Although we rarely holiday in the same area twice, we soon resigned ourselves to the fact that we would have to make a return visit to this lovely part of Spain. We returned in April/May 2008 and were again enchanted by the area.
It is not a strenuously challenging area for walking as most of the walks are on quiet country lanes and old cobbled donkey trails with assents and descents averaging at around 200 metres. However, it is a very pretty area, with relatively mild winter months and an abundance of wild flowers in the springtime. In the autumn there are chestnuts and wild mushrooms aplenty.
It is unspoiled by tourism and there is a wide choice of walking within easy reach of any of the villages where you may choose to base yourself. I am only aware of one walking guidebook for the area, which gives quite detailed directions and a map for 27 walks.
There are around fifteen main whitewashed towns and villages within the park, all of which have been built around an impressive church or castle.
Many of the churches date back to 15th century and storks make good use of the bell towers by building their nests on top of them. You will often hear their clicking call as they circle above you on your walks.
You will certainly find the pace of life much slower than at home and to stroll the cobbled streets of the quaint villages, which are more suited to donkeys than cars, is like taking a journey back in time. It is not unusual to see ladies still doing their washing by hand in the communal wash area out in the street, and you can be sure of a genuinely friendly welcome from old and young alike.
The villages are linked by a network of trails, many of which are signposted or way marked. As you meander through meadows and forests of chestnut and cork oaks, the soundtrack to your walks will be the song of birds, bubbling streams, and grunts from the ubiquitous black Iberian pigs.
As you approach the fields in which the pigs are devouring acorns, or anything else they can find, you will hear barking from dogs whose only concern is that no one runs off with one of the pigs they’re supposed to be guarding. Otherwise they are friendly and would probably prefer to join you on your walk.
If you feel like a break from walking there is much to see in the area.
Aracena (pop. 7000), the largest town in the area, is certainly worth a visit. It has impressive caves, castle ruins, many interesting buildings, a bull ring and a variety of contemporary outdoor sculptures spread around the town.
Almonaster la Real (pop 2500) has a 10th century mosque, the Mezquita, which you can climb up to for impressive views over the town and surrounding countryside.
If you prefer something smaller, take a walk through Linares de la Sierra (pop 350) and admire the village houses with their “door mats” made from marble cobbled mosaics. The outdoor communal washing area near the square is still in use, although its bullring is now a car park and seating area for the local bar.
Castano del Robledo (pop 250) dates back to the 16th century and has two huge churches, one with what looks like an iron dome.
Really small? Then take a hike to Corterrangel or Los Madroneros. Los Madroneros has a medieval feel to it and you will see more cats there than inhabitants. When I say small, you are probably looking at ten as a combined population of the two villages.
When we visited in 2006 we stayed in the village of Castano del Robledo which is pretty central as a walking base but lacks amenities and suitable parking spaces.
For our 2008 visit we chose Corteconception, just four miles outside of Aracena. It has better amenities, seven bars, and a better quality of accommodation. The property we rented is owned by a friendly and helpful couple who live close by and moved to the area from the U.K. four years ago.
For those visiting in the summer months there is a lake close by with picnic areas, swimming and fishing.
Sierra de Aracena Natural Park is marvellous hiking/walking country, and it seems criminal to me that so few walkers appear to be aware of the area. On our last visit we only met four walkers during 12 days of walking. If you are interested in taking a break there, or even organising a group holiday, please feel free to contact me and I will let you have more details about the park, walking book, and accommodation for 1 to 20 people.
Jeff
Travel approximately 65 miles from Seville towards Portugal on the N433 and you will find yourself in the Sierra de Aracena Natural Park in the north of Spain’s Huelva province. All the holidays we take are walking holidays and we have had several in different parts of the Spanish mainland and islands. However, it was not until April 2006 that we finally got around to visiting this tranquil, rural haven, which is revered throughout Spain for its pork products. Although we rarely holiday in the same area twice, we soon resigned ourselves to the fact that we would have to make a return visit to this lovely part of Spain. We returned in April/May 2008 and were again enchanted by the area.
It is not a strenuously challenging area for walking as most of the walks are on quiet country lanes and old cobbled donkey trails with assents and descents averaging at around 200 metres. However, it is a very pretty area, with relatively mild winter months and an abundance of wild flowers in the springtime. In the autumn there are chestnuts and wild mushrooms aplenty.
It is unspoiled by tourism and there is a wide choice of walking within easy reach of any of the villages where you may choose to base yourself. I am only aware of one walking guidebook for the area, which gives quite detailed directions and a map for 27 walks.
There are around fifteen main whitewashed towns and villages within the park, all of which have been built around an impressive church or castle.
Many of the churches date back to 15th century and storks make good use of the bell towers by building their nests on top of them. You will often hear their clicking call as they circle above you on your walks.
You will certainly find the pace of life much slower than at home and to stroll the cobbled streets of the quaint villages, which are more suited to donkeys than cars, is like taking a journey back in time. It is not unusual to see ladies still doing their washing by hand in the communal wash area out in the street, and you can be sure of a genuinely friendly welcome from old and young alike.
The villages are linked by a network of trails, many of which are signposted or way marked. As you meander through meadows and forests of chestnut and cork oaks, the soundtrack to your walks will be the song of birds, bubbling streams, and grunts from the ubiquitous black Iberian pigs.
As you approach the fields in which the pigs are devouring acorns, or anything else they can find, you will hear barking from dogs whose only concern is that no one runs off with one of the pigs they’re supposed to be guarding. Otherwise they are friendly and would probably prefer to join you on your walk.
If you feel like a break from walking there is much to see in the area.
Aracena (pop. 7000), the largest town in the area, is certainly worth a visit. It has impressive caves, castle ruins, many interesting buildings, a bull ring and a variety of contemporary outdoor sculptures spread around the town.
Almonaster la Real (pop 2500) has a 10th century mosque, the Mezquita, which you can climb up to for impressive views over the town and surrounding countryside.
If you prefer something smaller, take a walk through Linares de la Sierra (pop 350) and admire the village houses with their “door mats” made from marble cobbled mosaics. The outdoor communal washing area near the square is still in use, although its bullring is now a car park and seating area for the local bar.
Castano del Robledo (pop 250) dates back to the 16th century and has two huge churches, one with what looks like an iron dome.
Really small? Then take a hike to Corterrangel or Los Madroneros. Los Madroneros has a medieval feel to it and you will see more cats there than inhabitants. When I say small, you are probably looking at ten as a combined population of the two villages.
When we visited in 2006 we stayed in the village of Castano del Robledo which is pretty central as a walking base but lacks amenities and suitable parking spaces.
For our 2008 visit we chose Corteconception, just four miles outside of Aracena. It has better amenities, seven bars, and a better quality of accommodation. The property we rented is owned by a friendly and helpful couple who live close by and moved to the area from the U.K. four years ago.
For those visiting in the summer months there is a lake close by with picnic areas, swimming and fishing.
Sierra de Aracena Natural Park is marvellous hiking/walking country, and it seems criminal to me that so few walkers appear to be aware of the area. On our last visit we only met four walkers during 12 days of walking. If you are interested in taking a break there, or even organising a group holiday, please feel free to contact me and I will let you have more details about the park, walking book, and accommodation for 1 to 20 people.
Jeff